By Nikhil Merchant

When thoughts drift to Goa and its delectable offerings, it takes a highly dependable coastal stance—think spicy prawn curry, ukade rice, crispy rava fried fish, and a coconut-infused catch-of-the-day curry. Add in humble veggies like cabbage or potatoes, and some zesty pickles, and you have yourself a popular, local, complete meal. Martin’s Corner? That was Goa’s quintessential seafood haven.

Explosion of flavours

Goa attracted a certain type of travellers which trickled in from the time they had emerged from the shackles of Portuguese influence. Back in the 60s, when Goa was liberated and pockets of hippy culture slowly made their way out, its pristine beaches and awe-inspiring coastal vistas brought intrigue to the global traveller. Goa was affordable, exotic and with hospitable locals who were more than thirsting to welcome explorers of a certain kind. Goan cuisine being a co-attraction, the state slowly became a tourist hub for travellers from all over the world.

Goa’s culinary roots are from Portuguese, African and regional Indian influences, predominantly known as Konkani food. We’d think that Goan cuisine is all about coastal and seafood motifs, but in retrospect it has a diverse inclusion of several cuisines from these regions as well as local influences such as Saraswat Brahmin, Goan Catholic, Goan Hindu, Anglo-Indian and several smaller coastal communities. Over the years, many international cuisines, specially with European influences, found their way into local menus. This culinary diversification aimed to cater to a tourist population craving both local and intentional western gastronomic experiences. The allure of Goa being India’s ‘foreigner’ central soon started attracting local Indian tourists in generous numbers. The only grouse—there was a dearth of relatable Indian food. The absence of north Indian staples, such as authentic dal makhani and butter chicken, posed a challenge.

Beachside shacks, too, which gained popularity in the 70s, would serve up fresh seafood to wandering tourists. But they were never approached by the locals due to their slightly westernised preparations. These shacks, over the years, materialised into serving up a mixed bag of cuisines, thus retaining its tourist central stamp, but failing to attract seekers of authentic Goan cuisines.

Even locals, amid their coastal culinary affections, showed little interest in alternate Indian cuisines. A scattering of restaurants featuring north Indian (Sher-E-Punjab) and Indo-Chinese (Goenchin) barely managed to scratch the surface of representation in the capital city of Panjim.

However, local chefs and eateries have now managed to permeate the market with their chef-driven concepts. Avinash Martin, a proud Goan from a family of seafarers, introduced Cavatina Cuchina (2013) in Benaulim, to present a contemporary twist to Goan cuisine. His award-winning restaurant has become a favourite choice for locals seeking authenticity. Similarly, Chef Rahul Gomes Pereira, fondly known as Chef Picu, found success with his ambitious venture, Jamun, in Delhi. He returned to his roots in Goa, opening a second branch of Jamun (2019), which quickly gained acclaim and affection as it felt like a homecoming for him. Even old spots like Anandashram (1945), Kokni Kanteen (1972) and Starlight (1981), which serve up traditional Konkani fish thalis, are still known for their consistency and service to the masses.

The pandemic wasn’t kind, and in the face of adversity, Goa stood out as a resilient destination among one of the fewer places in India. As borders cautiously opened—travel-hungry Indian tourists started focusing on places they had easy access to. Goa saw a quick surge, and before long its Indian tourist influx had capitalised all others. This wasn’t the only factor, Indian citizens from other states were looking at avenues to either shift their home base or set up business in Goa. Second homes in the form of luxurious villas took centre stage and before long a spate of Indians from many states started claiming Goa as their new abode.

With the state now seeing a cosmopolitan era, the diverse cuisines of India soon started permeating its food culture. The locals, wanting something different to look forward to, and the palate satisfaction of the new residents created an emergence of flavours which crossed borders and stopped fixating within Goan cuisines.

New hubs

In the heart of Goa lies a burgeoning culinary destination. In the village of Bardez, Goa, is an unassuming little town called Assagaon, also known as the ‘flower village of Goa’. In the last few years, it has metamorphosed into a restaurant hub featuring some of the newest eateries and watering holes. Sprawling villas, which remained vacant for many decades, are being taken over by restaurateurs from other states and cities, and converted into mega-food and bar projects, thus luring the ever-increasing load of Indian tourists. Around 60 different projects are reported to be on the anvil for opening this year.

The spotlight first shines on Bawri, a gastronomic haven conceptualised by Delhi-based Sahil Sambhi and Chef Amninder Sandhu. Opening its doors in June, Bawri is more than a restaurant; it stands as a tribute to age-old recipes with bold flavours. Sambhi, the co-founder, reflects on the changing culinary landscape of Goa. “If you look at all the new brands that have cropped up, there is a large percentage of Indian and Asian restaurants that have opened over the past two years,” he notes.

Bawri, with its north Indian offerings, identified a gap and emerged as a pioneer in satisfying the craving for authentic Indian flavours in north Goa. Over the past five months, it has garnered favour not only from the reinstated residents, but also from the locals.

Flocking a primely-priced Indian restaurant has generated a whole new era of dining culture. Rohit Khattar, chairman of OWH/EHV International, who introduced the acclaimed Indian Accent to Delhi 14 years ago and, more recently, to Mumbai, unveiled his latest restaurant project, Hosa, in Goa. Nestled in a 100-year-old bungalow, Hosa is a south Indian concept which rewrites the way the cuisine is experienced. Khattar’s observation on the exponential rise of varied Indian cuisines in Goa sparks intrigue. He muses: “I doubt if there’s any cuisine which has not made its way into Goa yet,” offering a snapshot of the culinary kaleidoscope unfolding in the region. Khattar’s deviously ambitious take on food from neighbouring borders of Goa, which include mutton pepper roast and coconut shrimp, has found a devoted following among the well-heeled of Goa.

Riding on the south bandwagon is Chef Suresh Pillai, a chef-preneur managing RCP (Restaurant Chef Pillai) in multiple locations globally, including Goa. Pillai also introduces the state to a deeper dive into south Indian cuisine—presenting classical and traditional dishes originating from different parts of Kerala, namely the deep south, central Travancore or central Kerala and the northern Malabar region. Chef Pillai’s interpretation of these cuisines, which include his signature dish Fish Nirvana (slow cooked on a banana leaf with fresh spices and coconut milk), showcases a fusion of local ingredients. Locals and tourists alike are captivated by the varied interpretations of local ingredients which make up the formula of most coastal cuisines— fresh seafood, tropical fruits like coconut and intense local spices and herbs.

Established eateries like Gunpowder, The Rasoda (with branches in Old Goa, Panaji, and Margao) and Maai continue to wield a significant influence over the portrayal of Indian cuisine in the state. The evolving culinary landscape is evident in hotels adapting their menus to embrace diverse Indian flavours. Grand Hyatt, with its renowned Indian fine-dining restaurant ‘Chulha’ regularly explores regional cuisines across India, showcasing them through engaging festivals.

Recent highlights include an exploration of Awadhi recipes. Meanwhile, long-standing establishments like Cidade De Goa and Hilton Goa Resorts contribute to this culinary evolution by hosting festivals like Onam Sandhya and organising limited Indian street-food festivals, respectively. Westin Goa caters to the convenience of those on the move with their innovative butter chicken box takeaway.

Konkani connect

It has not all been about premium prices, temporary festivals and fancy food. Radhika Khandelwal, the owner of the Delhi-based Fig & Maple, opened its second outpost in Goa in October last year. She chose to celebrate traditional and new flavours while championing the cultivation of lesser-known crops. She steers her concept toward a farm-to-fork ethos. Fig & Maple highlights Konkani cuisine, a blend of coastal tastes from various Konkan regions. This shift has been noticed in Fig & Maple’s customers, drawing in more people from north India, Maharashtra and Karnataka. Khandelwal describes her culinary philosophy as “telling a story through food, bringing lesser-known ingredients into the spotlight”. This reflects the changing culinary scene in Goa and the restaurant’s effort to stay true to its roots, while adapting to new trends.

Ask Khandelwal, why Goa, of all the places? Just like a lot of north Indian restaurateurs making their way into the coastal state, choosing Goa for her restaurant was intentional due to its rich biodiversity and the availability of unique, locally-sourced ingredients. Their ethos has been a commitment to sustainable practices, including cultivating their ingredients and exploring the use of wild foods. Standout dishes include the Khandvi Ravioli with Prawn Bisque and the Sabudana Risotto with Junglee Maas, a playful and innovative dish that pays homage to sabudana khichdi, with creamy coconut sauce, in either junglee maas or mushrooms, black lime pickle zest, and lentil papad crunch.

Much to the chagrin of rising costs, rents and food prices, restaurants and bars continue to open through the seasons of 2023. But what do local restaurateurs think? Pranav Dhuri, Goa’s homegrown owner of Petisco, a restaurant that opened in Panjim in November 2020—soon to become a local favourite, serves up a nouveau take on Portuguese-Goan (Konkani) cuisine.

Dhuri reiterates how their main clientele and target audience are locals: “We wanted to give locals a unique dining experience at an affordable price point. But as we’ve grown in popularity through word of mouth, we have seen a shift. Our clientele comprised 90% with locals or people settled in Goa, but over the course of time as we’ve grown we have seen more tourists approaching us.” With a ratio of 60:40, most of Petisco’s clients are from Bengaluru, Mumbai, Kolkata and Delhi. Dhuri ruminates about how international tourists have dropped due to the rise of other destinations around Asia which are more affordable and give greater value.

Shifting tides

In exploring the cuisine inclusivity in Goa, there are a multitude of Indian cuisines that are yet to make their way into Goa’s culinary landscape. Looking ahead, Khattar envisions a potential introduction of Kashmiri food. He has been contemplating an offer to open Chor Bizarre, his kitschy, old world charm infused Kashmiri restaurant which has its first outpost in Delhi.

Additionally, there is a notable demand for the representation of Indian cuisines like Andhra food, which has the potential to make a significant impact, particularly given Goan’s penchant for spice.

Petisco’s Dhuri, a staunch localist, shares insights into the rise of northeast Indian cuisine in Goa. He notes, “Northeastern cuisine is something local chefs are following closely, observing them as a rising star among the culinary landscape, other than the momos/ dumplings which have been there for a long time now. A wide array of dishes from Mizoram, Assam, Nagaland, Manipur and some influence from Tibetan cuisine have found a place among locals.”

Khandelwal concurs with Dhuri, highlighting the untapped potential of northeastern cuisine in Goa that has come into focus of local chefs. Although she attributes this withholding to the rising costs associated with establishing restaurants in Goa, and feels financial barriers are likely to hinder the introduction of several micro-cuisines. This consideration holds significant weight among Goans.

Local millennials such as Devisha Bhatia, actively engaged in her family chemical business and passionate about exploring new places in her city, express a longing for Indian street food. She perceives a huge gap in the market for more varieties of Indian street foods to grace the plates of Goans. She earnestly hopes restaurateurs take notice and introduce alternatives that are not only affordable and inclusive, but add to the range of cuisines permanently offered in the city.

Goa is currently a hotbed for Indian cuisine and a perceptive one at that. It’s currently chalking out untapped opportunities to bring a new, exciting culinary dimension to the state, offering a taste of India’s unexplored gastronomic treasures.

Nikhil Merchant is a Mumbai-born food and beverage expert, consultant and writer